Seeds and Seedlings

Seeds

In long-season areas, tomatoes can be direct-seeded into the garden, but most people start their seeds indoors 5-6 weeks before the last spring frost, and then plant their seedlings out into the garden. The main advantage of starting tomatoes from seed, is the huge variety of tomatoes you can grow, because you aren’t relying on whatever the garden center or nursery has in stock.

Seedlings

If you’re going to buy your seedlings from the garden center or elsewhere, then look for clean, dark green foliage and a sturdy habit. If the bottom leaves are yellow or brown, or if there are any flowers already showing, the plant is stressed. Look at the leaves and the underside of the leaves closely for any pests. If you see any chew marks, or aphids, don’t buy it. Try to buy the healthiest, pest-free, plants available because they will be the most productive plants overall.

Always plant seedlings in the garden after all danger of frost has past. In other words, don’t be in a rush to plant! Getting a tomato plant into the ground when the soil is cold causes it to turn purple (purple foliage means the plant can’t take up phosphorus). Wait a week or two after the average last-frost date. and set them out about 24-36 inches (60-90 cm) apart if you are going to allow the plants to sprawl. If you plan on staking or caging your tomatoes, they can be planted about 15 inches (38 cm) apart.

Planting and Fertilizing

I always put down a small amount of balanced organic fertilizer like a 5-5-5 and work it into the soil right before I plant. Generally you don’t want to fertilize tomatoes too much until the plant is well established, and in full flower, because too much nitrogen will give you lots of foliage and not a lot of fruit. I have found, however, putting down a small amount of balanced fertilizer gets the plants off to a good, healthy start. Then next time you’ll want to fertilize again is when the plants start to flower. Also, spraying your plants with a kelp solution two or three times a season boosts vigor, which helps the vines fend off diseases.

Always plant tomatoes deep, and on their sides. Dig out a shallow trench. Remove the lower stems and branches off the tomatoes, leaving only the upper most top leaves. Lay the entire plant down a trench on its side and cover with soil. Leave only the top leaves showing. Don’t worry if the foliage is pointing to the side, it will right itself and grow upright in a few days. I plant tomatoes on their sides because the entire stem that is now buried will form roots, giving the plant the best foundation possible and allowing the plant a greater ability to absorb nutrients and water. Plus a larger root system near the soil surface will mean that more heat will be available to the plant, producing earlier tomatoes.

• A word about cutworms.
  If you have a big problem with cutworms in your area, you will want to place a “cutworm collar” around the stem where it goes into the soil. You can use a strip of newspaper or an old cardboard toilet paper roll holder.
  Cutworms chew along the surface and a thin strip of newspaper or cardboard around the plant stem will stop cutworms from chewing through the stem.
  When you’re finished planting, firm the soil down evenly to ensure the plant is well settled.

  Written by Day Lily on 2007/07/16 | Permalink to this article